Behind its powercouple name, the Australian Garry (Wilson) and the French Ariane (Samuelian) breathe love and fresh air into this timeless tavern near the train station. In the dining room, you’ll find a rustic look with tomette tile floors, exposed rafters and straw-bottomed chairs, not quite in tune with the chef’s surprise cuisine… The night we went, the winning appetizer trio was composed of an Albacore tuna tartare sliced into a watermelon and grated feta gazpacho, with flash-seared langoustine tail wrapped up in lardo di Colonnata on a medallion of homemade focaccia, and a zucchini blossom stuffed with ricotta, Parmesan and chanterelles… Followed by: a pollack steak moistened by kefir with herring roe, cream of corn and fried eggplant; veal rump in a peppery sauce and a coco de Paimpol mousse; before a pretty desserts threesome, including a redcurrant sorbet sprinkled with green tea and whole raspberries in a eucalyptus cream. And to drink, auteur wines fill the glasses: a white Zardalou with notes of apricot from L’Eau du Nénuphar (€4 a glass), Fleur de Cailloux, a Côtes-Catalanes white from Jean-Philippe Padié (€35 a bottle) or Wabi Sabi, a pure Cinsault from the Domaine de Mena (€25). Not seen often: you can bring your own wine so long as you pay the €10 corkage fee! Menus €23 (lunch), €32-38-45 (dinner). // D.N.
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