Trained by the skilled shamans of Parisian bistronomy (Rodolphe Paquin, Bruno Doucet), Normandy native Henri-Alexandre Lotthé returned to his homeland in 2018 to sing a holy love song to good fats and natural wines. In his restaurant located right across from the covered market, all of Le Havre’s hedonists heed the call of his blackboard menu. Savor the lot around a high table or seated on an old banquette: pork trotter and Camembert tartines, free-range pork belly and braised Chinese cabbage, stuffed veal heart cooked in a Dutch oven… And for us, the day we went for lunch: extra creamy sardine and herring rillettes; a hearty salad of smoked beef and herbed Puy lentils; before a stunning baba au rhum topped with white chocolate whipped cream, prepared by the young pastry chef Sarah Le Maréchal (who trained under Ducasse). // R.deC.

FEELING THIRSTY? Sixty-some bottles of natural wine to choose between: a Sicilian red from Andrea Vesco (€5 a glass) or a Roussillon from Benoît Arletaz (€37 a bottle)…. Along with Calvados from Michel Huard (€7 a glass).

PRICE: À la carte €28-40.