At the age of 34, former artistic advisor Bastien Rabois gifted himself a brand-new playground. In this den tucked away on the other side of the canal (original windows, two communal tables for 15 dinners, moleskin leather benches, industrial light fixtures, an open kitchen), the self-taught scholar treats his respectable and environmentally respectful ingredients (permaculture-grown vegetables from Ô Potager from Le P’tit Paul near Castelnaudary) with care and very little fuss. The day we went for lunch, the €20 menu featured: a radiant Andalusian gazpacho with tomatoes from the garden, an herb emulsion (almond milk, radish tops, basil and parsley), croutons and shiso leaves; excellent meagre fillet that was perfectly pan-fried and served with fregola sarda, white patty pan squash, carrots, green beans and Calabrian pepper caviar, all moistened by a Buddha’s hand jus; before some delicious vine peaches from his parents garden in the Tarn-et-Garonne, roasted and served alongside a hazelnut shortbread and basil granita. // P.L.
FEELING THIRSTY? A short and thoughtful wine list which shines a spotlight on independent producers: a Loire Sauvignon from Puzelat (€6 a glass), a Gaillac red from the Domaine de Brin (€22 a bottle), a Saumur white from La Folie Lucé (€36)…
PRICE: Menus €17-20 (lunch) and €25-28 (dinner).
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