At Rossi, he who pays their bill increases their wealth! The “luxury of simplicity” sold by chef Felice Miluzzi reproduces the Slow Food-style dishes of his native Italy – with all the rigor and none of the snobbery. In a trattoria-style setting (a pastiche Marti-Rossi sign, dark wood, red and white checkered tablecloths), we polished off all the following, from top to bottom: non troppo classica vignarola alla romana, a happy marriage of artichokes and broad beans, loved up with guanciale and a fried egg; rustic, fat beans and potato with a twist of amberjack, wild garlic and mint; divine ravioli stuffed with Neapolitan ragú; breaded lamb chop alongside asparagus tousled with fermented black garlic; before a zabaglione baba with buffalo ricotta and summer berries. All that to the sound of the cuoco singing retro Italian variety tunes from the open kitchen, which he willingly leaves to chat about his cuisine that tastes like a fortune. // Rémi Nigaut

FEELING THIRSTY? Classic aperitifs, just like in a square in Torino: Spritz, Negroni et al. (€12-13) and house wines, like the Rosso Piceno from the Marches (€7.50 a glass), Ancestrale, a Lambrusco from Sebastian Van De Seype (€48 € a bottle), or a Calabrian red A Vita (€55).

PRICE: Starters €16.50, pasta €16.50 to €17.50, dish of the day €22.50 (lunch), menus €30-€36 (lunch) and €49 to €86 (dinner).