“Is this the real life? Is this just fantasy?” Come daydream in Seraign, where chef Benjamin Gaugué (a Georges Blanc alumnus) and Amina El Banouti (a socio-cultural sector escapee) have taken over a village hideout sending out Rhapsodian cuisine. Sitting like sardines in the noisy dining room (ochre tomette tiles, teal blue walls, a wooden bar), the juice is definitely worth the squeeze: deliriously good roast cauliflower with mirin and soy, crowned with a miso sabayon and vibrant tabbouleh; fabulous Breton langoustine ravioli doused in an emulsion made from the shells and served with thinly sliced Comté cheese; smooth Brussels sprout yakitori reveling in a red cabbage and black garlic jus; cheerful monkfish cheeks and herb jus, with crunchy asparagus, tarutaru sauce (Japanese tartare sauce) and a vibrant calamansi jelly; ending with a fantastic lamb shoulder sausage flanked with eggplant caviar, bathing in a spicy green curry. And for the final sweet touch: braised endive, citrus marmalade and yogurt ice cream. // Amber Oisy

FEELING THIRSTY? A few natural bottles (along with some conventional ones), including a Minervois Laguzelle from Benjamin Taillandier (€7 a glass), Potato Land, an Austrian Grüner Veltliner by Matthias Warnung (€36 a bottle), or Ponzichter, an Austrian red from Petra and Franz Weninger (€36).

PRICE: Menus €56, €66 and €76.