Yoshinaga

Yoshinaga? Named after Tomoyuki Yoshinaga, the former master of Okuda, whose new temple to hungry bellies lies on the first floor of a neo-Japanese-style spot at 27 Rue du Quatre-Septembre, and is home to nothing less than the sushi of a lifetime. With its rather sci-fi-monastic atmosphere combining maple wood and dazzling lighting, this restaurant designed by Paul Dupuy (also behind Sushi Shunei), Damien Melon, Ismaël Emelien and Jean Dupuy bewitches 10 lucky dinners around the counter with a symphonic omakase menu. The overture got things rolling with a quartet of plates in ode to the sea: a trio of mackerel sashimi with leek, Japanese shallot and ginger; grilled bluefin tuna belly, daikon and shiso; scallops in a plump dumpling; and grilled amberjack, onion confit and sweet potato. After that? A virtuoso score of 15 sushi, including an elegiac piece with cuttlefish, a concerto in amberjack major, a hymn to chutoro (medium fatty tuna), eel hitting the acme – and many more, including red mullet, miso-marinated lobster, trout killed ikejime-style, fatty tuna tartare and caviar… Before ending with a matcha ice cream polyphony made by Alain Ducasse. Encore! Encore! // Albertine Simonet

FEELING THIRSTY? A sharp selection of sakes (Fukunishiki junmai Fu at €12 a glass, Gikyo junmai ginjo at €18), demanding Yamazaki whiskeys (from €18 to… €297 for 40 ml), and peasurable wines (Le Kottabe, a riesling from Josmeyer at €20 a glass) and others that sting (a Montrachet from Jacques Prieur at €1,600 a bottle).

PRICE: Omakase menu €330, food and sake pairings €75-110.