Right near the Japan-obsessed rue Saint-Anne, Masayoshi Hanada’s very chic sushiya (a marble bar, a monastic ambiance, attentive staff) welcomes eight in-the-know palates at each seating for a Fujiyama-esque voyage. The day we went for lunch, the Omakase tasting menu (€138) featured: delicate melt-in-your-mouth tofu with toasted sesame, seasoned with a touch of grated wasabi; Breton lobster with wild asparagus and broad beans, shrouded in a graceful soy cream sauce; very elegant amberjack sashimi mixed with pieces of Battaglione cucumber infused with ponzu sauce; graceful halibut fillet marinated in soy sauce with roasted baby carrots and macerated radish; a mix of shrimp, cuttlefish, Chinese cabbage and shiitake mushrooms; a ballet of sushi prepared with surgical precision (brill, red seabream, langoustine, crab, tuna belly…); then a rice ice cream with whole strawberries, before a light Japanese lemon cream, raspberries and a sake cream. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a wine list predominantly featuring pricey Burgundy wines (a buttery Saint-Aubin from the Domaine Marc Colin et Fils at €80 a bottle), a magnificent Puligny-Montrachet from Vincent Girardin at €126), along with a beautiful selection of sakes – including the truly sublime junmai daiginjo Dassai 23 (€23 for 100 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €78-110 (lunch), €190 (dinner).