La Bourse et la Vie
Friends of the bistro lifestyle, welcome to La Bourse et la Vie, s’il vous please! In this muted space (big speckled mirrors, dim lighting, verdigris velvet) filled with a 100% American crowd the night we went, Daniel Rose (the highly-publicized chef of Le Coucou in New York and the owner of Chez La Vieille in Paris) brings together France’s great classics. Served à la carte from his repertoire: classic leeks in vinaigrette livened up with crushed Piedmont hazelnuts; gigantic monkfish tail served with pan-fried new potatoes and a subtle rosemary cream; a hearty veal pot-au-feu served in a beautiful copper pot, plus calf’s head and ravigote sauce; before a less-than-extraordinary thyme sorbet moistened by a drizzle of olive oil, which was XXL as well.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are big names on the menu (Les Choisilles from Chidaine, a very elegant Chenin, €14 a glass), along with lesser-known options (a natural Sauvignon Akmèniné from Riffault at €65 a bottle), along with plenty of things to bust your monthly wine budget (a splendid magnum of Pimmard from Fanny Sabre at €244).
PRICE: À la carte €51-69.