Friends of the bistro lifestyle, welcome to La Bourse et la Vie, s’il vous please! In this muted space (big speckled mirrors, dim lighting, verdigris velvet) filled with a 100% American crowd the night we went, Daniel Rose (the highly-publicized chef of Le Coucou in New York and the owner of Chez La Vieille in Paris) brings together France’s great classics. Served à la carte from his repertoire: classic leeks in vinaigrette livened up with crushed Piedmont hazelnuts; gigantic monkfish tail served with pan-fried new potatoes and a subtle rosemary cream; a hearty veal pot-au-feu served in a beautiful copper pot, plus calf’s head and ravigote sauce; before a less-than-extraordinary thyme sorbet moistened by a drizzle of olive oil, which was XXL as well.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are big names on the menu (Les Choisilles from Chidaine, a very elegant Chenin, €14 a glass), along with lesser-known options (a natural Sauvignon Akmèniné from Riffault at €65 a bottle), along with plenty of things to bust your monthly wine budget (a splendid magnum of Pimmard from Fanny Sabre at €244).

PRICE: À la carte €51-69.