La Bourse et la Vie
This is what happens when the most Francophile of American chefs, one Mr. Daniel Rose (Chez La Vieille, Le Coucou in New York), brings his Parisian dream to life. In an elegant space (grey-green woodwork, big mirrors and bourgeois benches), the menu revisits the very best of French bistro fare. But careful, you’ve gotta show up with a big appetite: a superb appetizer of artichoke hearts in broth with coco de Paimpol beans and cecina (€14); incredibly tender Simmental ribeye steak dry-aged for 30 days, with classic fries and a sauce au poivre (€39) – or an excellent pot au feu with veal and tête de veau with sauce ravigote (€32); and a crème caramel that brushes up against perfection (€8). In the bottles, there are some very fine things: Morgon from Guy Breton (€8 a glass), Terrasses-du-Larzac from Le Mas des Brousses (€45 a bottle), Alsace-Riesling from the Domaine Emile Beyer (€65). Set menu €34 (lunch), à la carte €51-69. // S.L.