Once a hangout for sugar-high kids, this former candy shop now houses Chez Lucienne, welcoming grown-ups with a serious craving for gorgeous tommes and raw-milk cheeses. Behind the seventies-inspired, sky-blue-tiled facade, ex-real estate agent Alban Dumolié has swapped apartment viewings for pilgrimages to the Cantal mountains in search of the perfect wheel. No living walls or Instagram bait here, just a discreet aging cellar, a pale-wood counter and impeccably bred cheeses: chaource with a gloriously runny center from Leclere farm; La Mémée bleu d’Auvergne; a goat cheese crottin from Céline Truchet; and a tomme des Pyrénées from Dominique Bouchait, packed with moreishly rustic character. And if you behave, there’s a reward: a hidden terrace out back, ideal for a quick lunch or a post-work bite sheltered from the mistral. On the menu? Generous cheese boards with bread from Maison Saint Honoré, charcuterie from La Cave à Jambon and wines carefully curated by Guillaume Bonneaud. · Pedro Rascaille

THE HIDDEN GEM: Ultra-fresh Neapolitan buffalo mozzarella from Salva Italia, sold as balls, classic nots or braids (€42.20 per kilo).