At their smoke house located just a stone’s throw from the ocean, Bénédicte and Julien cold smoke things to perfection, working exclusively with carefully-sourced local catch: grey mullet, sea bream, meagre and bass from the Arcachon Bay (€8.40 to €13 for 100 g), plus rainbow trout farmed in good conditions in the Montbel Lake in the Ariège Pyrenees Mountains (€29.20 for a 400 g fillet). And to salt the fish, they use salt harvested by Éloi Keller in Saint-Clément-des-Baleines (on the Île de Ré). Bonus: it’s possible to taste everything in house. // Raoul Taburin 

The hidden gem: The fleur de sel from the Île de Ré that’s delicately smoked over beech wood (€8 for 90 g).