Fancy a smoke? In a hamlet not far from the Baie des Trépassés after their former lives in New Caledonia, Amandine Hiret and Clément Chartié opened up a B&B back in 2018. Then to spice things up a bit, they added a smoke house to their property. Apart from the Scottish or Irish salmon, all the fish they smoke is caught by local fishermen: sardines, mackerel, pollack and herring get smoked over beechwood, Albacore tuna is tied up like saucisson, perfect served sliced on baguette with salted butter. At night, the wood-paneled boutique turns into a restaurant that’s overrun with curious diners for the smoky menu (crafted depending on the catch of the day) that’s been known to leave more than a few customers flabbergasted. // Marcelle Ratafia

The hidden gem: The tender and meaty mackerel, lightly smoked and seasoned with curry and dill (€34/kg).