Café Enez

A century ago, the portside streets of this city known for its tinned fish were filled with the angry protest songs of its women workers from the fish canneries; their historic strike marked an important chapter in the history of feminism and labor movement. Perhaps it was this spirit of rebellion and solidarity that inspired chef Mahaut Le Lagadec (who used to work at Bonne Aventure in Saint-Ouen and Les Sardines à la Plage in Lancieux) to take over the former café Le Poullig, opposite the legendary covered market, and open up her neighborhood eatery, Café Enez. Starting early in the morning, groggy rockers and locavores alike come with their shopping baskets full and gather on the terrace of this lively square to order coffee from the Sable roastery on the Presqu’île de Crozon, local charcuterie (classic or dried smoked andouille from La Maison Rivalan-Quidu, pork terrine made by a local artisan charcutier, etc.), carefully chosen cheeses, mussels from the Atlantic Ocean and oysters from Loctudy sourced from the nearby Poissonnerie du Port, organic vegetables from the farmers’ market, fried eggs with herbs and elegant small plates – like chilled dashi broth sprinkled with fresh peas, strawberries and drizzled in fig leaf oil, or a summery hodgepodge of tomatoes, cucumbers, agastache and elderflowers. // Suzy Dalleuze

FEELING THIRSTY? : Natural and local libations at reasonable prices: Gobiidae, a Burgundy melon from the Breton winery Tizh (€4 a glass) or Imbibez-vous !, a Cahors red produced by Fabien Jouves (€20 a bottle). There are also a few brews (Plijadur beer at €6 for 500 ml) and sparkling options (Des Bouteilles à l’Amère cider at €3 a glass). Otherwise, opt for Finistère-made kombucha (€4 for 250 ml), lemonade or cola from the artisan soda makers Dour An Doueez (€3 for 330 ml).
PRICE: : Plates €3-10 (savory) and €2.50 to €6 (sweet).