Don’t let the sensible-sounding name fool you: at Tranches, they do more than just slice. There’s passion, serious butchery and medals to boot. Leading the charge is Anthony Denicolaï, with fifteen years of butchery under his belt and a medal from the world saucisson championship to prove it, who set up his butcher’s block in the former Épicerie d’Endoume alongside his wife Caroline and chef Renaud Perrin. Their pigs? Raised in the shadow of Mont Sainte-Victoire, then turned into some seriously fine charcuterie in the in-house curing cellar. At the counter, there are hams, caillettes, fennel sausage and a glossy, golden pâté en croûte already doing the round at some of the city’s best tables – every bit as non-negotiable as the Saturday porchetta. All under the watchful eye of their daughter Emma, the house’s official mortadella taster. · Jacques Tourteau

Shopping list: Anthony’s pâté en croûte – grab it without a second thought, along with the house-made coppa.