At first glance, with its pared-back dining room, long wooden bar and schoolhouse tables, you’d be forgiven for expecting the same old soup, just reheated, the kind served at the mildly bobo-fied bars now a dime a dozen along Cours Julien. Think again! His time at Livingston left sommelier Vincent Fiore with a genuine love for low-intervention wine and the neighborhood’s graffiti-splattered streets, a neighborhood he made his own for good by taking over the iconic Massilia Pub with his crew Thibaut Roussel (from the London hospitality scene), Ethan Benillouche and Marine Keryer. And this HQ houses all their favorite pastimes: natural wines, on-trend cocktails, small plates and clever wood-fired pizzas changing with the whims of chef Clarisse Wautier (ex-Tuba). Throw in a pool table, a serious sound system and DJ sets on select nights, and chances are you’ll be bumping into them regularly around the ‘hood. · Artie Show

Ordered: An umeshu tonic with a twist of lemon (€9), a lip-smacking Negroni Sour (€12) and a Tavel-hued rosé from Frères Soulier (€34 a bottle), all soaked up by generous portions of ‘nduja mussels and a pizza topped with Taleggio, za’atar and confit garlic (small plates €5-€15, pizzas €9-€15).