Right by Cours Julien’s iconic painted steps, Swiss ex-pat Lili Gadola (ex-Epicerie L’Idéal), backed up by her partner Fabien, discovered the absolute perfect spot to open Limmat (named after the river that connects Baden to Zurich). A few vintage light fixtures over here, some antique furniture over there, and they’re ready to liven up the neighborhood with briny treats that won’t break the bank! For us, the day we went for lunch: a lovely little smoked mackerel salad with shaved apples and beets, even better with the excellent bread from the Pain Pan bakery; a generous serving of couscous with homemade fish balls and spicy harissa – or, for those who don’t have their sea legs just yet, striking squash gnocchi; before an excellent sweet chestnut cake with whipped cream for dessert. // pseudonym

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a good lager from the Brasserie de la Plaine (€3.50 for 330 ml) and a short selection of natural wines, including a Luberon white from La Cabrery (€3.50 a glass) or a red from Nathalie Cornec vinified in the center of Marseille (€24 a bottle).
PRICE: À la carte €17.50 to €21.