Not only does she bring together the community’s latest cool kids for her summer pop-up (Juan Pablo Rojas Pineda, Zoé Guillemot, Diadié Diombana…), but Andrea Pittaluga now has something big planned for the fall, with real chef residencies. Like the one by French-Tunisian chef Khouloude Ben Thayer (ex-Fondation Azzedine Alaïa), who kept things lively the other day at this bistro with lots of ceramic and wooden details: a masterfully-made oyster mushroom empanada served with a tangy yogurt dipping sauce; delicate smoked beetroot gazpacho with slow-roasted garlic and mint, goat cheese and pickled cucumbers; a disappointingly small portion of smoked eggplant, dotted with labneh, black lime, toasted walnuts and a squash-plum reduction; beautiful seared butternut squash gnocchi tucked into a sublime curry sauce that combined shrimp bisque, coconut milk and almond pesto; before a curious saffron-spiced rice pudding with pistachios and smoked Sichuan pepper. // Victoria Bout

FEELING THIRSTY? : Local Zoumaï craft beers (€5 for 330 ml), in addition to a selection of natural wines: a muscadet from the Domaine la Fessardière (€28 a bottle), a Catalan orange wine by Tanca Els Ulls, a Côte-de-Brouilly from Laurence and Rémi Dufraitre (€28 and €42)…
PRICE: : Plates €6.50 to €16.