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Sistaou

Traiteur Sistaou (Marseille)

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Like a Provençal remake of Sister, Sister, deli edition! After working in the worlds of law and HR, sisters Anne-Laure and Caroline Pierre traded in their lawyer’s robes and Excel spreadsheets for a pair of aprons – the former has her nose deep in the stinky cheeses, while the latter plays at the stovetop. Their Sistaou? A sober space with concrete and tiles, filled with an abundance of carefully-sourced products, which you can nibble or pop open on the nearest bench (or later if you have a little more patience). The day we went, the display cases were filled with enough to make us dizzy: a fresh delivery of the season’s first brousse du Rove cheeses; mouthwatering sheep’s milk tomme de brebis cheese from the Pyrenees, smoked over beech wood; a formidable croque sandwich with lots of melted cheese; boquerones from the Basque canned goods company Yurrita; Piedmont salad sold by the kilo; fontainebleau with poached pears; wine by Patrick Bouju, the king of Auvergne natural wines; La Baleine à Cabosse chocolates… In short, an address that counts double! // Folayemi Abimbola

THE HIDDEN GEM: The jar of pesto alla genovese from Antichi Sapori del Frantoio (€7.60 for 180 g).

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