The bottle itself doesn’t matter much, so long as there’s Ivresse (or “drunkeness” in French)! Thirsty people in the Longchamp neighborhood gather round the zinc and corrugated iron bar at this former mechanic’s garage, where Hugo Fregoni (ex-La Mercerie and Camas-Sutra) keeps everyone happy with well-chosen bottles and small plates to nibble on. Featured on the playbill the night we went, natural wines galore (which you can pop open in house for a €7 corkage fee), including Houba Houba, a Gard red blend from Rafaël Raybois (€17), a Beaujolais from Jérôme Balmet (€20), or Weiss, a German orange wine from Marto, including a remarkable selection of wines from Eastern Europe – something the owner loves, who used to work in the Berlin bistro Jaja. In short, plenty of good things to pair with the balanced eats, like excellent chickpeas in passata, or grilled Marseille peppers with some divine whipped ricotta. // Victoria Bout
The bullet-proof bottle: A German pet’ nat’ from Pauline Baumberger-Brand (€27).