The bottle itself doesn’t matter much, so long as there’s Ivresse (or “drunkeness” in French)! Thirsty people in the Longchamp neighborhood gather round the zinc and corrugated iron bar at this former mechanic’s garage, where chef Max Tuckwell (ex-Fulgurances in Paris) and vinophile Nikolaj Tur (an ex-photographer) bombard the neighborhood with carefully curated bottles and drool-worthy small plates. Featured on the playbill the night we went, natural wines galore (which you can pop open in house for a €7 corkage fee), including Houba Houba, a Gard red blend from Rafaël Raybois (€17), a Beaujolais from Jérôme Balmet (€20), or Weiss, a German orange wine from Marto. In short, plenty of good things to pair with the beautifully crafted eats, like haddock tarama, tender braised leeks with watercress and a citrus vinaigrette, and spinatknödel in parsley oil. // Victoria Bout

The bullet-proof bottle: A German pet’ nat’ from Pauline Baumberger-Brand (€27).