A nod to Guy Prosper Môquet or an offering to the gods of prosperity? A bit of both, according to François Roche (who used to work at Septime) and Santiago Michel (the spark behind Fueguito, the traveling Marseille-Argentine barbecue joint), who now co-run Prosper. Inseparable since their time together at Frenchie, these champions of la vida local set their sights on an unassuming joint near La Plaine. Given a gentle facelift (two-toned walls, an open kitchen, a shady terrace), the old L-shaped dive has been reborn as a joyful and bright bistro. And true to its name, dinner the night we went was an ode to abundance: plump Spanish tortilla with green harissa and a spicy mayo de la casa; decadent baked mussels under a subtly spiced crumble topping; cuttlefish crudo doused in XO sauce with toasted buckwheat; exuberant breaded pork loin with glazed asparagus… And to round out the meal: just one dessert, but a beautifully executed one – meringue, lemon cream and the first strawberries of the season… which promises to be prosperous! · Foleyami Abimbola

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural and biodynamic wines produced in France and Argentina, like the skin-contact wine made by the Santa Julia estate in Mendoza (€36 a bottle) or a Savoie pinot noir from the Domaine H (€42)… Along with some sophisticated liqueurs, like Rey Campero mezcal (€10) or Renegade rum from the Caribbean (€14), plus Archipel kombucha for the sober crowd (€6 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Appetizers €7-15, mains €17-25, desserts €8-9.