Urban Fish Farm

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From head to (fish)tail, Erik Portier works with it all – except for the gills. A former Google employee who became a self-taught fishmonger during lockdown, the neo-fishmonger (who already nurtured dreams of being a fisherman) shows off his beautiful products in the dry-aging fridges: sea bream, bass, Arctic char, amberjack, mackerel. They’re all carefully chosen, wild (mostly from the North Sea) and farm-raised – and the majority are killed ikejime-style. Displayed on the stall the day we went: tantalizing cod, spectacular octopus, bluefin tuna sliced Japanese style (hu-toro, o-toro, akami) and some expensive but incredible hamachi! And since nothing goes to waste, inspired by Josh Noland and his seafood practices, Erik prepares heart, spleen, liver and roe into mousses, pâtés, terrines, boudins and even mortadella! // Alba Nebbioli

The hidden gem: The stunning tuna bresaola, a brined and dry-aged fillet, sold plain or rolled in a furikake seasoning mix (€70/kg).

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