In need of wine after the daily grind? Get your glasses at the ready, for Louis Goument and Olivier Chalifour (the former did time at Septime, the latter at Brutos) always have the corkscrew on the go at their discreet bar in the Montorgueil neighborhood. On the massive shelf opposite the counter top running all around the bar, they house a collection that’s a thousand leagues away from the bottles from childhood family meals, which they switch up over the months and to suit the mood: Hey Gro, a juicy Angevin grolleau by François Saint-Lô (38 €), Weissburgender 2020, a supple German pinot blanc from Julien Renard (€39), or Les Grillés, a gamay from Marine Bonnet and Pierre Cotton (€38). Slip one sharpish into your basket, or enjoy a bottle while chilling at the bar (for a €8 corkage fee) with dry Lacaune sausage, pork terrine, tomme aux fleurs cheese or labneh with figs and sumac. Shout out for the 10 wines by the glass and the large communal table over in the next room, that you’ll be invited to camp out at if you arrive in a large group. All’s wine that ends wine! // Théodule Mollard

THE BULLET-PROOD BOTTLE: Megamix, a more than welcome blend of gamay, chardonnay and pinot noir vinified in the Mâconnais by Julien Guillot (€30).