Le Piano Bleu may have fallen silent, but the glasses are still singing! In this legendary café-concert (now also a wine cellar) in the old town of Saint-Brieuc, where Marcel Mouloudji and Gilles Servat once sang their hearts out, Sandra Féquet (who used to work at Montreuil natural-wine institution Amitié Rit) has wisely resisted the urge to reinvent the place. The interior remains deliciously timeworn, with the faint whiff of a boozy dive; the same wooden counter, polished smooth by years of elbows and excess; the same timeless facade – blue, naturally. Only the rhythm has shifted. Night owls have now given way to a loyal daytime crowd, and some of France’s finest, cleanest natural wines now flow freely in town. Take your pick: Temps de Chien, a lively chardonnay-gamay from Romuald Valot in Beaujolais (€15 a bottle), Lerchenberg, a razor-sharp riesling by Louis Maurer (€22) or Arc, a cinsault from L’Absurde Génie Des Gleurs (€18). Drop in for a quick bottle to take home, or pop one open on-site (with an €8 corkage fee) alongside Armorican nibbles, like pork rillettes (€7.50) or seaweed tartare (€7). · Pascal Diagonale

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Grand Gousier, an elegant old-vine pineau d’aunis from Ariane Lesné (€27).