Rolland

The Bonnefont brothers (Emmanuel in the vegetable patch and Pierre, ex-Mare aux Oiseaux, in the kitchen) left Paris behind to remodel an abandoned mill in the village of Plourhan, deep in the Côtes-d’Armor countryside, but a mere five minutes from the Saint-Quay-Portrieux harbor. The result? Welcome to Rolland, a bistro with uninterrupted views of the fields and the open kitchen, which is heavily focused on seafood and (organic) vegetables grown on site. The day we went for lunch, there was toum (Lebanese garlic cream) to be spread on focaccia or homemade bread for the amuse-bouche; zucchini from the vegetable patch masterfully prepared two ways (roasted and as tempura), paired with sautéed shiitake mushrooms, plus a mint espuma for dipping and a haddock cream; very fresh mackerel fillets from the Saint-Quay fish market, electrified by a fennel compote and a tomato-rich jus; before an incredible rhubarb sorbet tucked up against a toasted almond emulsion with grilled almonds and a very pillowy madeleine for dessert. // Adrien Bir 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Clean bottles of wine: Sergent Pepper, a Loire red from Anne-Cécile Jadaud (€9 a glass), Premier Rendez-vous, a Loire chenin from Lise and Bertrand Jousset (€49), Infrarouge, an Alsatian pinot noir from Krumpf et Meyer (€44 a bottle); and coffee from the micro-roaster Celtik in Saint-Briac. 
PRICE: : Set menus €30 and €37, kids’ menu €15-18.