In the Vinois family, good food is no laughing matter. After passer the torch of Brasserie Vinois to his son Elliot, Dimitri took over À Table in 2018 – the very place once run by his own father. And here, the maestro of French cuisine pulls off a remarkable tightrope walk between tradition and modernity, backed by his sommelier daughter-in-law Salomé (who happens to be French, of course!). The evening we visited, in a space dripping with modern country-house chic, the place was buzzing with energy – in a good way: glorious homemade pâté en croûte, its flaky crust sheltering flashes of sweetbreads, foie gras and morels; farm-fresh egg poached low and slow at 64°C, paired with crisp white asparagus, morels and a jus so good you’ll want to lick the plate clean; white sausage from star butcher Dierendonck, sliced and grilled to perfection, generously doused in a tangy Tierenteyn pickle sauce, flanked by green beans and a pan-fried mushroom medley; or crispy andouillette sausage with a punchy mustard sauce, a bright salad and fries that transport you straight back to childhood – simplicity elevated to an art form! The grand finale? A crêpe Suzette flambéed tableside with Grand Marnier – a timeless classic for ending dinner on a high. · Tastesteron.

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list with a heavy French accent. Seven champagnes (yes, seven!), including Veuve Fourny & Fils (€16 a glass), plus top Burgundy picks: Les Plantes, a chardonnay from Domaine Dujardin (€86 a bottle) and a pinot noir from Domaine Muzard (€105).