Is the Gen Z vintage corked? In the quiet reaches of Woluwe-Saint-Lambert, opposite Saint-Henri church, chef Victor Cornet (ex-Coquum, on stoves and bottles) and his childhood pal Jérémie Prigneaux (a finance guy crunching the numbers) are thick as thieves in this former Chinese restaurant that’s been given a simple spruce-up (a wine-filled bookcase, a brushed-metal counter and rattan chairs). Just the right setting to celebrate the house’s holy trinity: sharp plates, meat with swagger, beautiful bottles! Wines from the likes of Radikon, Overnoy, Valette and co. almost steal the show from the razor-sharp cooking, which makes Belgian terroir sing across three starters, mains and desserts, without so much as a whiff of snobbery. A new generation far too good to cellar. · Ambre Oisy

Ate: Raw ikejime amberjack bathing in sorrel broth with a kick of horseradish, and juicy pork collar served with creamy dukkah carrots – which won out over the bone-in ribeye for two suggested on the menu.

Price: Set menus €24–31 (lunch), starters €15-25, mains €25-35, desserts €11.