A theatrical twist on the Italian fine dining scene! At Baci, the young and feisty chef Maxence Louis (Spratchie’s, Osteria Bacetto in Verviers) shines a spotlight on his pots and pans in the sumptuous, green, neo-classical dining room at the Théâtre de Liège (golden crown moulding, Versailles-style hardwood floors, dim lighting). On the nine round tables with white tablecloths, the set menu plays out in four or five acts – also available as a vegetarian version – in a brilliant work of scenography, from the staff to the plates: explosively flavorful cichetti as a prelude; porchetta 2.0 and béarnaise sauce prepared with homemade fennel vinegar; perfect walnut and white truffle agnolotti in an onion bouillon so good it’ll bring a tear to you eye; tender duck breast with a delightful morello cherry and amaretto emulsion; and for the finale, peppered clementines, chestnuts and a crispy agastache meringue. A modern reinterpretation of Italian food, and not far from being a masterpiece! // Monica Noli

FEELING THIRSTY? Custom-made negronis, shaken at your table by the mixologist Jonathan Lopez (€14), pricey flat or sparkling water (€8), wines served by the glass (starting at €9), like the Primitivo from Passo del Cardinale in Puglia, alongside Italian bottles: a Sicilian white from Gulfi Carjcanti (€69), Rien ne vaut la vie, or a Tuscan cabernet-sauvignon from Fuori Mondo (€73).
PRICE: Tasting menus €60 and €75, food and wining pairings €35 and €45.