Say goodbye to La Cantine du Général! Cécile and Émeric Chambon have taken over this historic brasserie on Boulevard de Launay to open up their Bistrot de la Comédie, the younger brother of La Comédie des Vins wine bar. The original banquettes now stand out against Klein blue walls, and the menu is gaining ground with classic dishes by Philippe Maizières (ex-Sources in Nantes). The other day, our lunch consisted of: ultra-sensual potato cream dressed simply with a few dots of parsley-infused oil and some shaved oven-dried pork belly; a few slices of veal rump which were thin and tender, moistened by a bitter caramel sauce with a dark hue (an homage to Marc Meneau’s recipe), paired with caramelized endives; before a quince and pear tart topped with an incredible Chiboust cream. Seen from a distance: oven-roasted venison and monkfish with a lamb’s lettuce coulis. // Thomas Jossin
FEELING THIRSTY? A naturophile bible offers itself to you: a Fitou from Le Mas des Caprices (€6.90 a glass), a Touraine red from Laura David (€36 a bottle), a Rhone white from Éric Pfifferling (€47), etc.
PRICE: Appetizers €8-12, mains €16-28, desserts €6-8.
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