Maison Arlot Cheng

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A stone’s throw from Les Machines de l’Île, Chin-jy Cheng and Pierre-Antoine Arlot now welcome in customers all day long to their luminous Maison. The space? A bakery with the best breads in the city, displayed on the granite and slate counter, and a café corner in the luminous waiting room, designed by Atelier Mima (waxed concrete floors, curved wooden benches, bay windows), where chef Louise Dumas (ex-Chateaubriand in Paris) launches Nante’s everyday grind into orbit. For our last lunch there: an umami-esque broth made from vegetable peels and miso, with ricotta and smoked eel dumplings for dipping; tantalizing skate with capers, a creamy bergamot lemon sauce and steamed cabbage; before a tarte topped with a mousse of fromage blanc from the neighboring Laiterie Nantaise, and grapefruit slices – which we preferred over the walnut and azuki bean cream tart. It’s also worth noting that they serve an excellent Sunday brunch with baked Plougastel oysters, panisse fries, French toast and charred bread cream, etc. // Thomas Jossin

FEELING THIRSTY? Pierre-Antoine has put together a selection of locally produced, natural nectars: a white from Terra Vita Vinum (€3.50 a glass), a pet’ nat’ rosé from Les Errances (€16 a bottle), a Muscadet from David Landron (€21)… And to go with all that, there’s a selection of Japanese teas (€3-4 a cup).
PRICE: Set menu €19.50 (lunch), plates €6.50-15, desserts €4.50 to €5.50, brunch dishes €3-15 (Sunday).

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