Bohême

Vegetarians, beware! Because a meat lover with a knack for butchery runs this laid-back restaurant with a big windowed wine cellar and a south-facing terrace: Alexandre Polmard, the youngest in a long line of butchers (which goes back six generations) and cattle farmers (four generations), along with his partner Maxime Petit. Expect classy products that are treated with care by chefs Manuel Rondan and Dorian Despaux, whether you opt for a tasting menu or, like we did, order à la carte: achingly tender blonde d’Aquitaine steak tataki with ponzu sauce and a guacamole emulsion, or a delicious veal and black garlic tartare to start; followed by a massive 750-gram rib eye to share (for three), or a juicy hanger steak dry-aged for six weeks, both of which were grilled over the open flames and served with masterfully made ratatouille, and crispy thyme-parmesan fries – and for non-meat-eaters, there’s mi-cuit tuna with teriyaki sauce, paired with sweet potato purée. Still hungry? Opt for the millefeuille featuring layers of country bread, caramel mousseline, salted caramel sauce and olive oil ice cream – rather than the dacquoise topped with a pistachio emulsion, roasted apricots, apricot cream and peach sorbet. // Lenny Vega

FEELING THIRSTY? Perfectly prepared cocktails (including the Bohême combining Belle Rive gin, lime, agave syrup, egg white, curaçao, rosemary and piment d’Espelette, €16) and a wine list that combines nearly 200 labels: Les Buées, a Burgundy white from the Domaine Larue (€55 a bottle), Enclos, an Hérault mourvèdre from La Terrasse d’Élise (€7), or Les Romains, a Sancerre from the Domaine Vacheron (€89).
PRICE: : Set menu €35 (weekday lunch), tasting menus €65-95 (4-5 courses, à la carte €60-85).