Thomas Filiaggi hid his restaurant and vegetable garden along a country road behind a pétanque shop, decked out with a pergola and a dining room with midnight blue walls! In between harvesting tomatoes, mint or artichokes, this former Obut executive composes lovely, colorful garden dishes. The day we went for lunch, our €32 menu included: a chilly salmorejo (a cold Andalusian soup) made with yellow tomatoes and nectarines, topped with mozzarella and dry-cured beef from theGrisons; slightly overcooked octopus served with a celery cream under a canopy of purslane and zucchini ribbons; before a cheeky apricot coulis with yogurt ice cream and a rosemary crumble topping. Or you could order à la carte: a tomato, watermelon, cucumber and feta salad; homemade pork and pistachio terrine; lamb chops with white beans and caponata… // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic, predominantly southern wines: a Côtes-du-Rhône white from Le Vin des Potes (€6.50 a glass), a Côtes-du-Roussillon-Villages red from the Château Montner (€31 a bottle), a Bellet blanc from the Domaine de Vinceline (€40)….

PRICE: Set menus €26-32, kids’ menu €12. À la carte €9-21.