At the wheel of their Foodie Bus, Anne and Bô By crisscrossed Cambodia in search of local specialties and home-style dishes, which they first unleashed on the streets of Phnom Penh… and now Saint-Malo! Behind the counter of this sunny eatery – all vast picture windows, primary-colored shelves and trailing greenery – Bô stirs Khmer culinary secrets with a spice-led philosophy (honed at Le Coquillage in Saint-Méloir-des-Ondes), with the day’s market produce calling the shots. The other lunchtime, after eyeing our neighbor’s “king” of Khmer sandwiches (a half-baguette crammed with carrot, sweet-and-sour cucumber, coriander, a flicker of chili and marinated pork), we zoomed in on our own spread: a bowl of chilled makrut lime broth shimmering with tomatoes, citrusy tapioca pearls and purple shiso; a wheat noodle salad tangled with kimchi, fried shallots and Thai basil, plus eggplant glossed in a foamy coffee emulsion; finishing with sticky rice crowned with peach quarters slathered in coconut caramel – outrageously good, spoon-licking stuff. · Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRST? Local cider from Maison Sorre (€4.80 a glass), a tidy lineup of wines including Des Rêves Plein La Tête… Des Étoiles Plein Les Yeux!, a red Bordeaux from Château Grand Launay (€6 a glass), jasmine tea (€3) and – not just for show – the wonderfully fizzy fig leaf kefir that Anne ferments at the end of the bar (€3).

PRICE: Set menus €16-20, appetizers €4.50, mains €13, sandwiches €8, desserts €4.50.