Brume

The Bay of Quiberon is a little slice of paradise for wealthy folk (well) over the retirement age… and for the rest of us too! In the middle of the Port-Haliguen housing developments, Brume sells lobster at (nearly) democratic prices when they’re in season, in addition to some lovely seafood prepared bistro-style. Running this faux-bourgeois spot (equipped with a pontoon and wooden tables, plus a sensational terrace), Emmanuelle Prigent, Emmanuel Grégoire (front of house) and chef Vincent Le Balch, who met while working at Suzanne in Boulogne-Billancourt, are something of a beacon in the fog. The summer night we went, seated under the olive tree that was losing its blossoms, we savored a plump focaccia brushed with curry oil and seaweed, plus a dusting of grapefruit zest; an enormous ravioli stuffed with fresh goat cheese, covered in peas, zucchini tagliatelle, fresh radish and a ginger-lime jus; and a decadent half lobster paired with herb butter and served with mashed potatoes and a delicious jus; before a hearty plate of chocolate mousse, chocolate-hazelnut crumble and passion fruit-orange jelly. // Rosa Poulsard 

FEELING THIRSTY? : No wines from your dad’s generation, just the good stuff: Exilé, a chenin from Lise and Bertrand Jousset (€8 a glass), Haute Côt(e) de Fruit, a malbec from Fabien Jouves (€6.50),or Holderbaum, an Alsatian riesling from the Domaine Geschickt (€48 a bottle).
PRICE: : Set menu €22-28 (lunch), à la carte €33-66 and lobster menu €50 (dinner).