The captains of the legendary Petit Hôtel du Grand Large have set sail for new horizons, leaving Pauline (ex-Bristol) and Thomas Le Morlec (ex-George V, Bristol and Versance) at the helm of their vessel. The duo met at the École Ferrandi before taking over this briny inn, located along the Côte Sauvage of the Quiberon Peninsula – wooden tables, white chairs, ceramic tableware by Cyril Dennery, a big luminous space with views of the bay. They’ve renamed it Rivage and it’s the perfect spot to watch the boats sail by, while savoring plates that make extremely local Breton ingredients dance: light sea bream accras dipped into green onion mayonnaise; a thin shortbread tart topped with poplar mushrooms, homemade pancetta, gwell yogurt from the Ferme de Roger in Plouharnel with fresh herbs and borage blossoms; an intensely flavorful Breton pie noir steak tartare, combining fig leaf oil, dried bonito mayonnaise and mizuna; tender slow-roasted pork belly, tetragon, potato purée and a truly delightful pork reduction; and to round out the meal, a comforting Bourdaloue tart, plus elderflower ice cream. // Tosca Billaud

FEELING THIRSTY? : In the dining room, Pauline pops open thoughtfully sourced bottles: La Dure Lutte, a Bordeaux red produced by Cyrielle Houillon and Kenny Bentz (€5 a glass), Exilé, a chenin from Lise and Bertrand Jousset (€43 a bottle), Josette, an Aveyron red made by Nicolas Carmarans (€42)… and for something a little stronger, there’s citrus and Timut pepper gin from the Distillerie Mamenn or strawberry-Sichuan pepper eau-de-vie from the Distillerie SpiRal (€12 and €15 for 40 ml).
PRICE: : Snacks €10-22, appetizers €14-18, mains €20-35, desserts €6-13.