Cellar

Les Pépins

© Dorian Schmisser

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Breton wine, really? Just ask Dorian Schmisser… From behind the blue-hued counter of his wine bar, this former employee of Mig’s World Wines (Brussels) will try to convince you of its merits via a few bottles vinified in Locmiquélic by Nolwenn Runigo and Roland Conq (€15 each), made with grapes grown near Nantes – as they wait for their own personal grapevines to produce their first grapes. But skeptics can rest easy: the boss also has a selection of organic and natural wines from the Loire Valley (like Le Balbuzard, a Savennières from Yohann Moreau at €18), which you can taste in the nearby miniature garden for a corkage fee of €8, along with hard ciders (including a Cidra Kahlo from La Ferme de Port Coustic, for €10.50) and even a few local beers from the local Horla microbrewery. And if you need backup, there are cheese platters sourced from the village of Baden to sponge it all up. // Guillaume Bulot  

The bullet-proof bottle: A 2019 Carignan Radical produced by Alexandre Durand who runs the Pèira Levada estate (€20). 

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