Itsasoa

On an adorable street a safe distance from all the tourist traps in Carnac, Erwann Le Pogam (a former film machinist, ex-Petit Hôtel du Grand Large in Portivy) opened up the lovely Itsasoa (which means “sea” in Basque). Here, you can practically see the waves dancing, from the proud lobster and bonito to the humble mackerel, all from independent Breton fishing operations, sourced by Laurent Daniel in Le Guilvinec. The day we went, the five-course menu featured all of the following: after some finely-tuned amuse-bouches, there was incredibly tender flash-seared mackerel served with herby Greek yogurt, plus tangy mackerel sashimi that had us weak in the knees; plump Nantes prawns, flame-charred and pimped out with a saffron-infused fish head jus; bluefin tuna killed ikejime-style and delicately flash-seared, served with roasted peppers and ravioli filled with palourde clams and chard; beautiful duck from Bénédicte Dagorret; before a chocolate-raspberry dessert that was as classic as it was delicious. // Suzy Dalleuze

FEELING THIRSTY? : A wide array of living wines, including a cheverny blanc from Hervé Villemade (€8 a glass), a Southwestern tannat from Imanol Garay (€45 a bottle), along with some enticing, herbaceous cocktails, or the hard apple cider from L’Apothicaire (€6 a glass), since we are in Brittany after all!
PRICE: : Dish of the day €20, set menus €24-28 (weekday lunch), €44, €68 and €88 (three, five and seven courses).