It would seem that the sea air certainly worked its magic on boosting the brain cells of James Ensor and Albert Einstein, as they once sat on the terrace of this Art Deco institution (ornate counter, marbled tables, period pendant lights), nestled in the hotel of the same name built in 1929. A century later, it’s now the turn of Shannah Zeebroek, born and raised in Ostend, to be inspired for the solid menu that spans breakfast to dinner. For us, at lunchtime: lettuce heart duly grilled and adorned with crushed pistachios; Zeeland mussels with sorrel in a beurre manié sauce; as well as a classic tartare made from a cut of Bordelaise beef shoulder that’ll have you licking the knife clean, served met fries straight from the fryer. No doubt about it, we’ll be back as the tide comes in! // Anita Kane

FEELING THIRSTY? A range of wines by the glass, including a Bergerac pet’ nat’ from Albert de Conti (€8 a glass), or On S’en Fish, an organic Roussillon red from Domaine Gardiès (€50), and no less than nine beers on the menu, including a Rodenbach Grand Cru (€6 for 330 ml), and Cantillon Gueuze (€15 for 375 ml).

PRICE: lunch menu €55 (€69 with a glass of champagne), à la carte €36-67.