Finally, a cool Crozon canteen alternative to those moules-frites tourist traps! Mathilde Traullé and Pierre-Emmanuel Courtois (with stints at Daniel Boulud’s Ritz Carlton in Montreal, Chez Germaine in the Basque Country) are giving the peninsula a serious culinary wake-up. A stainless-steel kitchen, shelves stacked with wines and zero-compromise locavore vibes set the tone. Forget endless menus that draw out like a low tide: here, a living chalkboard dictates – three starters, three mains, three desserts, and that’s all folks! – reflecting the catch of the day and the chef’s current inspiration. That day, we kicked off with: line-caught pollack ceviche, all delicately vibrant and sea-kissed; a seasonal vegetable salad draped in a chlorophyll-green coulis with wild garlic mayo; then flaking roasted monkfish in a bold seaweed broth with grilled shiitakes and a perfectly balanced spicy crumble – or creamy risotto with fresh peas and persillade. Dessert? Kohlrabi three ways (grated, roasted, candied) with coffee cream and an olive oil biscuit, outshining the rhubarb-strawberry combo with buckwheat shortbread spotted the next table over. Canonization, please! · Pedro Rascaille

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic and natural wines curated by Pierre Quessard (the former wine merchant next door) with over 300 labels: Hors Piste, a Roannais pinot gris from Domaine des Pothiers (€7 a glass), Les Sardines, a white mâcon-villages from Robert Denogent (€9) or an Alsatian pinot noir from Yves Amberg (€50 a bottle). Dry options include fruit juices, lemonade and iced teas all from Alain Milliat (€5).

PRICE: €45-51 per person, smaller portions available for children.