Love at first bite in Brest! On the edge of Square de la Tour-d’Auvergne, inside what was an interiors store, the city’s been handed exactly what it didn’t know it was missing: Ravito. At once a wine bar, cave à manger, sandwich joint and sharply curated grocery store – its shelves stacked with handsome non-edibles (knives, Japanese tableware, books) – this is a place built to linger. From the open kitchen comes unfussy, deeply satisfying food, steered by a five-strong crew who clearly know what they’re doing: Julien Sevellec (ex-PAM, Grande M4ison) and Florent Le Goff on sourcing, Alice Gélébart on comms, Pierre Le Correc on finance and Erwann Leroux on e-commerce. Put it altogether and what have you got? At lunch, it’s generous sandwiches with a side salad (lamb’s lettuce, arugula and chunks of roasted squash): the Français stuffed with herb-crusted ham, Comté cheese, gherkins and molten butter foam; or the Véggé piled high with grilled halloumi, Lebanese tabbouleh, hummus and za’atar lemon cream. Desserts keep the comfort going: apple and pear buckwheat crumble with toasted hazelnuts, chocolate-banana cake or amaretto tiramisu. Come evening, Ravito slips into apéro mode with bar-friendly plates: Apulian preserved artichokes, beetroot hummus, roasted vegetables, local cheeses, pepper dip with grilled halloumi – best enjoyed in the laid-back hum with a glass of natural wine in hand. · Pedro Rascaille

FEELING THIRSTY? Gorgeous bottles to take away or drink in (with an €8 corkage fee): Boogie Woogie, a Languedoc blouge from Aubert and Mathieu (€4.50 a glass), Jeune Pousse, a white Côtes-du-Rhône from the Laffond brothers (same price) or Ponzichter, an Austrian red from Franz Weninger (€5.50). Plus organic Datxa kombucha (€6.20) and Maison Specht fruit juices (€4.80).

PRICE: Sandwich with salad €8-10 (lunch), plates €5-12 (dinner), desserts €4.50-5.50.