Chapeau Blanc

A hotspot founded in 1890 humming with a babel of different languages, the Chapeau Blanc almost tipped its cap in goodbye in 2023… But that didn’t allow for the dozen or so loyal devotees who put their neighborhood brasserie back on the right track, leaving it in its original state, from the mirrors to the woodwork, and simply bringing an attention to detail to the dishes – and by extension, the sourcing of their produce. From locals squatting the bar, to football fans in the purple home colors, and kets born and bred on the squishy banquettes huddled in a group of merry chaos, the evening we went was a scene to behold. On the plates? Crispy and wonderfully gooey shrimp croquettes; oeuf mayo with fried parsley, unexpectedly pimped out with celery remoulade; and some impressive roasted bone marrow flanked with garlic toast. On top of that, some totes amazeballs pork and veal meatballs in tomato sauce, an américain (aka Belgian-style steak tartare) with an onion and caper kick, and – the pièce de résistance – golden homemade skin-on fries, to rival the best frikots in town! We would have loved to indulge in dessert (crêpe, Dame Blanche sundae topped with molten Belgian chocolate, chocolate or fruit tart), but by this point the button on our pants had already popped! // Boby Lapinte

FEELING THIRSTY? There are hops, like the Super 8 in white or IPA (€2.70 to €3.30 for 250 ml), or natural grapes, with a white from Château de Montfrin (€40 a bottle) or a red from Château de Gragnos (€35), both from the Languedoc region.

PRICE: Set menu €16 (soup + dish of the day, weekday lunch), à la carte €22-51.