Plonked right in front of Anderlecht’s Justice de Paix since 1932, Friture René oozes a certain something that smells like Belgian spirit, which can be felt among the regulars, local Mauves football supporters, nostalgia seekers and… on the clothes on your back. With tiles running up the walls to head height, gingham tablecloths, and not-quite-so-masters paintings, pass by the kitchen before observing a moment of silence in front of the table where Jean-Philippe Smet feasted on the evening of June 9, 2012. Sorry, what? Ok, so the copper plaque doesn’t go into the details, but we can only image what he ordered: mussels stuffed with snail butter, shrimp croquettes (correct), eel in green herb sauce, a bowl of Cantillon beer-steamed Zeeland mussels (generous and tasty, with pale fries), a well-seasoned filet américain (Belgian-style steak tartare), mega-rib steaks served with every sauce under the sun, including a Basque Txogitxu served hot and bloody, and desserts of little interest except for fans of vanilla ice cream doused in alcohol. //Ringo de Balmalon

FEELING THIRSTY? Aperitifs galore (Monkey 45 gin, Gancia, Dolin vermouth… from €6 to €16), anonymous wines by the glass (5.80€) and beers on tap (Rédor pilsner, Cantillon gueuze and kriek) from €3.90 to €10.40.

PRICE: Starters €12-20, mains €22-35, desserts €7-8.