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Moored in the heart of the Gare Maritime is this stylish vessel from Michelin-starred chef San-Hoon Degeimbre (L’Air du Temps). On board? Set sail for bistro-style cuisine with influences that shift with the currents, so best have your sea legs ready! The first briny port of call? Some “kiwitres” – Normandy oysters jazzed up with cubed kiwi, or with a hit of gochujang for a Seoul-style twist. The epic journey continues with an ultra-indulgent take on cauliflower in all its forms – roasted, raw florets, a silky purée and a lacto-fermented jus finished with fresh butter – plus some show-stopping carrot, cooked to perfection with emulsified butter and crispy carrot tops. The day we swung by, the lunch menu also featured: a slightly dry pork chop with piccalilli-style Blackwell sauce, mustardy endives and flawless double-cooked fries; or a bistro-oriental holy grail of incredibly tender flash-seared sweetbreads paired with barely cooked langoustines, crowned with creamed watercress, hoisin sauce and pickled daikon radish and shallot. A must-try dish that brings us safely ashore. · Billie Relish

FEELING THIRSTY? Sip on house-made drinks, like the signature Dzin & Tonic (€13), starring L’Air du Temps homemade gin, or the chef’s non-alcoholic trilogy, in red (beetroot, blackberry, blackcurrant), rosé (purple shiso, basil) and white (verbena, lemongrass, turmeric), all €7.50 a glass. A few organic wines are also available, like Melon de Bourgogne from Éric Chevalier (€35 a bottle).

PRICE: Set menu €37 (lunch), appetizers €14-28, mains €25-45, desserts €9-14.

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