Dol-de-Bretagne just met its match in these two unstoppable dames! Halfway between Saint-Malo and Mont-Saint-Michel, this couple – in life and in business – took over an old roadside diner and turned it into a chic, glowing bistro, complete with a long brushed-zinc bar, elegant tableware and a crackling fireplace. Out front, Pascaline Albicini (ex-Robuchon and Etchebest) orchestrates the room, presenting the impeccably sourced dishes dreamed up by Marine Hervouët (ex-Passard and Verjus), who selects only the very best local produce or treasures from their own garden: grilled chanterelles (foraged from the forest a few kilometers away) glazed with kombu sabayon and a sprinkling of hazelnut praline; cod confit in seaweed-infused oil, nestled with spinach, beurre blanc and sea urchins from La Pêche de Tomy; or vegetarian agnolotti stuffed with squash and glistening in carrot caramel; finishing with a veg-leaning dessert (creamed cauliflower with white chocolate), before a final round of petits fours, including purple shiso ice cream and a buckwheat and honey financier. · Isa Dorade

FEELING THIRSTY? Spirits from close to home: Prié Brut cider from Pleudihen-sur-Rance (€15 for 750 ml), a pilsner from Brasserie Minimum in Montreuil-sur-Ille (€8 for 330 ml) or Pommeau de Bretagne Vieille Réserve from Distillerie des Menhirs (€12 a glass)… As well as wines that take a natural approach (Clair and Fred Niger, Domaine du Facteur, Marcel Deiss) and fancy soft drinks – like Claire Furgé’s homemade kombucha in grape, beetroot or fennel flavors (€7 a glass).

PRICE: Set menus €65-85 (5-7 courses), wine pairings €35-49 (€29-44 without alcohol), à la carte €59-79.