La Table Breizh Café
Bertrand Larcher, Le Guide Fooding’s 2011 Man of the Year
Bertrand Larcher asked Fumio Kudaka (ex-Guérard and Veyrat) to celebrate the union between Japan and Brittany in a space upstairs from Breizh Café. While the dining room certainly has a rather dojo dress code (a long blonde wooden bar, kotatsu chairs, an open kitchen), the €48 lunch menu sent forth fusion compositions that were always successful: a lovely Scottish salmon salad, octopus and lobster from Chausey with sesame oil and piment d’Espelette, refreshed by a cucumber brunoise; a bright butternut velouté with pan-fried pork belly and roasted langoustines with a sprinkling of a finely ground nori powder; roasted duck with honey in a powerful jus enriched with foie gras and paired with root vegetables and a umami-esque koyadofu (dried tofu); before a roasted apple with salted caramel cream and kinako ice cream for the graceful finale. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? Larcher, the head honcho, has brought together all the yakuzas of the sulfite-free wine game (Riffault, Nicq, Pacalet, Mosse…) and his favorite independent sake producers (a Fujiyama-esque junmai daiginjo from Masumi at €15 for 60 ml), and the big names of fine hard ciders (Zangs, Cécillon…).
PRICE: Menus €38-48 (lunch) and €85-160 (dinner).