You may happen to come across messy-haired Hugo Roellinger taking in the sea air on the terrace of this manor across from the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel. What he’s actually doing is “seeking out the flavors of the wind,” in between the sea spray and the scent of vegetables and spices sourced by his father. The buccaneer chef of the Château Richeux restaurant, Olivier’s son fuses flavors at full speed, striking just the right balance between land and sea. The impeccable Grand Choix de la Baie set menu (€68) was a three-course demonstration: an explosive Tonkinese broth (vegetables, cilantro, lemongrass and black cardamom) with sea fennel, langoustines and shellfish; sublime yellow pollack with green asparagus and elderflower blossoms from the embankments, sprinkled with Jeerakarimundi pepper; followed by a pistachio-flavored Paris-Cancale pastry, a vanilla millefeuille and/or wonderful cream puffs, snatched up off the dessert cart for the royal finale. One final piece of advice? Take a coffee in the wooden lounge, with an almond-honey nougat and salted butter caramels. Finally, to quench your thirst, place your trust in sommelier Gaylord Goulette and dive into the depths of the 350-strong wine collection: a red Faugères from the Clos Fantine (€8 a glass), a Savennières from Clément Baraut (€55 a bottle), a red Sancerre from Sébastien Riffault (€56). Menus €58, €68, €81 and €139. // S.L.