Le Coquillage

Le Coquillage (Saint-Méloir-des-Ondes)

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Following in his father Olivier’s footsteps, Hugo Roellinger meticulously pairs the local terroir (herbs and the cream of the crop from the vegetable patch, prized vegetables, maritime treasures…) with his magical powders unearthed from the four corners of the globe. At his Richeux château, complete with a garden filled with wonders (an orchard, beehives, a Celtic kitchen garden and a bread oven), facing the Mont Saint-Michel Bay, you can savor a plethoric series of delicacies, like on the €85 lunch menu: a stupefying “cotriade des lointains” (fish stew) inspired by a Cancale fishermen recipe, with a sublime dried mackerel bone broth with vegetables, seaweed and his poudre des vertus spice mix (made with a base of pepper, seaweed and turmeric), small new potatoes, marinated palourde clams, lime and puya chili, all served with slices of marinated mackerel. Then followed brill cooked over the embers, caressed by a hollandaise sauce with elderflower oil and Neelamundi pepper. For dessert, the legendary dessert cart has given way to generous individual platters (due to Covid), on which we found a maddeningly good homemade millefeuille, an addictive Paris-Cancale (a puff pastry stuffed with pistachio cream), a caramel-chocolate tart or even some vivifying strawberries with dulse seaweed. // S.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Gaylord Goulette is still watching over his collection of natural and living wines: a Muscat-d’Alsace from the Domaine Pierre Frick (€10 a glass), a Côtes-de-Bordeaux from the Château Le Puy (€13), a Pouilly-Fumé from the Domaine Pabiot (€54 a bottle), a Morgon Côte du Py from Jean Foillard (€48)…

PRICE: Tasting menus €85, €105 and €150 (food and wine pairings +€60-90).

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