While their parents have been championing Asian-inspired vegetarian cooking for the past 30 years at their iconic Tien Hang eatery, the next generation keeps the family flame alive with Dìdi (“little brother” in Mandarin), a trendy all-wood shack on the ever-delicious Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud. In a space spruced up with posters and a handsome counter, the Cheng siblings serve up dishes designed to fool even the most die-hard carnivores. On the menu: spring rolls paired with a vegan nuoc-mam sauce; slurp-a-licious biang biang noodles that give no hint their “beef” is actually soy protein; and the showstopper NoDuck Peking “duck” – a glazed Taiwanese seitan steak that flawlessly recreates the real thing’s crispy-yet-melting texture. You truly have to taste it to believe it! Dessert comes in the form of a light and fluffy coconut bao – the happy ending to a brilliantly executed act of culinary illusion. · Herber Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? Besides a classic Singha beer (€5) that does the job nicely, there’s a short list of familiar faces: a sauvignon blanc from Domaine de la Piffaudière (€7 a glass), Munt, a Roussillon red from the Dorniers (€32 a bottle) and an Alsatian pét nat from Domaine Pépin (€39).

PRICE: Appetizers €8-9, mains €15-16, desserts €3-6.