Eliane

Kobe Desramaults – the star chef behind the now-closed In de Wulf and Chambre Séparée –has bid farewell to his beach hut in Siciliy, trading it for a rather lavish log cabin in Brussels! Expect log rounds, chestnut-brown carpeting, rough-stone features and vintage chairs… and from behind the counter, a culinary show performed by the chef himself, with help from his faithful right-hand man Tiziano Franchetta – who earned his stripes at Gambero Rosso in Rome. Kobe’s rock’n’roll, seafaring delirium is no more; instead he’s mellowed out the tone slightly to offer a dozen or so superbly crafted dishes: langoustines sandwiched between ultra-thin wafers; crab meat enhanced by a sauce made from crab head and smoked liver; octopus grilled to perfection; shaved celeriac with winter truffle; a Gillardeau oyster with creamy vin jaune risotto that was absolutely to die for; and a comforting little mound of potato mousseline with potato skin jelly and caviar. And if that wasn’t enough, Kobe fired out a few gems from his Italian escapade: mini langoustines with bergamot; crispy ravioli filled with bok choy, anchovy and citron zest; a kumquat tartlet with blood orange sorbet hiding under a thin layer of warm crème brûlée. The king is back! // Coco Bianca

FEELING THIRSTY? Sommelier Esteban Casteur (ex-Rebelle) offers beauties like a verdejo Quintaluna by Ossian (€15 a glass) or the Petit-lait Lavé cocktail with Earl Grey, fennel seeds and pollen, and a dash of lambic vinegar made with said beer from the Cantillon brewery in Brussels (€12.50 a glass).
PRICE: Menu €285, food and drink pairings €120-150 (with or without alcohol).