There’s a false air of a new era at this palatial restaurant by chef Yonathan Cohen (ex-Mashya and Popina in Tel Aviv), who feeds his hungry followers on the first floor of the stunning neo-classical building home to Hôtel Fleur de Ville. Waltz past the bronze plaque engraved with “l’entrée de la direction,” to find guests at breakfast or dinner basking open-mouthed in the luxury and calm of the space, among the impressive staircase, mahogany bar, brass light fixtures and lavish patterned fabrics – all decorated by Saar Zafrir, also behind Craves Hotel. That evening, the right royal parade of shared plates included: unforgettable chargrilled sunchokes bathed in a plant-based broth; langoustine carpaccio sprinkled with furikake made with a mix of fried langoustine heads, toasted sesame seeds, nori seaweed and fermented chili powder, plus homemade shoyu and Belgian caviar; and creamy leek croquettes to dip in a Caesar dressing-style aioli seasoned with Comté, capers and tarragon… Still hungry? The matured rib eye steak from Dierendonck, served with multi-layered potato stacks, slow-cooked in beef fat, then fried and topped with beef garum powder, grilled onion and bordelaise sauce, which completely overshadowed the dessert of sheep’s milk panna cotta, poached pears, candied almonds and white chocolate crumble. Early risers can also indulge in the breakfast buffet: toasted brioche and scrambled eggs; smoked trout, soft-boiled egg and potatoes; avocado toast, miso and fermented chili vinaigrette; wild mushroom vol-au-vent… All the more reason to come again. // Lina Mégalinia

FEELING THIRSTY? Finn Fahy (ex-Nenu) has sourced a treasure trove of organic bottles, like Lerchenberg R, an Alsatian Riesling from Jean-François Ginglinger (€11 a glass), or 7 Řádků, a skin-contact Czech wine from Filip Nagy (€68 a bottle). Otherwise, there are cocktails with a glamorous twist (€14-17) and mocktails by Bôtan Distillery (€12-13).
PRICE: Snacks €10-22, starters €8-33, mains €32-42, desserts €12-14, breakfast menu €40.