We had mourned the loss of Chez Fred, a beloved haunt in the antiques district. We embraced the cosmopolitan charm of its successor, Jackie. And now we’re falling for the Tuscan allure of its replacement, Finocchio, the Italian-Belgian love child of the dashing Arno Heeren (taking orders) and Francesco Razzoli (working the stoves). With its original wooden bar, Victor Sturm Art Deco tiles and perfectly pressed white tablecloths, it’s cozy in the distinctly trattoria sense of the word. That evening: plump shrimp suppli (rice croquettes) and handsome Roman-style artichoke as antipasti; homemade tortelli stuffed with asparagus and guanciale for the primo; and, for the secondo, beef stufato wrapped snugly in crisp puff pastry, served with radicchio and pear. · Olive Oyl

Feeling thirsty? The wine list leans heavily Italian, with a few French detours and bottles spanning both conventional and natural: Grecorange, a skin-contact wine from Case Sparse in Umbria (€8.50 a glass), Nativo, a nebbiolo by Piedmontese winemaker Roberto Sarotto (€43 a bottle) or classic sauvignon blanc…

Price: Snacks €5-14, antipasti €13-17, primi €20-27, secondi €22-26, dolci €7-10.