Erwan Kenzo Nakata? He’s Breton on his mother’s side, Japanese on his father’s side, and a graduate of Les Beaux-Art (since that bit isn’t obvious from his name). He also used to run a creperie before opening his heavy-weight restaurant in 2014, which lights up Rue de Flandre with its neon sign. And whose dual Breizh and Nipponese influences can be felt as soon as you dig into the set menu: falafel (made using chickpeas grown on the Le Monde des Milles Couleurs farm) refreshed with shiso; udon pimped out with redcurrant, beetroot and goat’s cheese; curried and incredibly light haddock; donburi topped with matcha conger eel and pork belly stewed for 24 hours in a quince-wasabi sauce (a masterpiece!); before dessert, dulce de leche crossed with peanuts and cilantro. And if you were wondering, of course the butter is infused with yuzu. // Jean Gourmand

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of natural wines that come from Austria and Slovakia (like the Oakenshield white from Vdovjak at €60 a bottle), but mostly from France: a Roussillon red from the Vignoble Réveille (€35), Brézème, a Rhone Syrah from Éric Texier (€52)…

PRICE: Tasting menu €80, cheese supplement €12, food and wine pairings €60.