Knock, knock, knock! The curtain rises on the latest venture from Belgian-Korean chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre (Air du temps, Anju, Correspondance), who has transformed the small space that used to house his restaurant San (and later Vertige), to create the intimate setting for Jayu: dimly lit alcoves, a beaded curtain and a twelve-seater wooden bar with a full view of the performance. Here, maître d’ Cyril Moreau (formerly a chef on luxury yachts) plays opposite chefs Sylvain Claes and Quentin Gilot (both from L’Air du temps) in a twelve-course choreography: flamboyant red mullet served bouillabaisse-style, in fish stock laced with gochujang and anise hyssop; daring cacio e pepe, Koreanized as noodles coated in a kimchi jus with daikon raddish and Petrossian caviar; and umami-esque rehydrated shiitake mushrooms paired with anise hyssop and sancho pepper. The show-stopping finale? The scene-stealing kkwabaegi (Korean twisted donut), to be swirled through a purple shiso emulsion – it’ll blow your mind! // Carole Scarole

FEELING THIRSTY? A knock-out drinks pairing (€55, €40 without alcohol) featuring: Modern Korean Sool makgeolli (rice wine) made in Copenhagen, lacto-fermented dongchimi juice, 3 Fonteinen gueuze or Bertinchamps NA beer, a verbena-turmeric maceration, a rice water infusion and even samgyetang broth with ginseng. Otherwise, splurge on a glass of 2020 Pur Sang sauvignon from Didier Dagueneau (€43 – yes, a glass).

PRICE: Menu €130.